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The Different types of Gearboxes for the Fiat Tipo Gearbox
The Tipo was first revealed to the public in January 1988. An all new design to replace the Strada/Ritmo it was initially available with only one body style – a five door with a drag coefficient of 0.31.
Gearbox
5 speed manual
4 speed automatic
CVT
cable or hydraulic clutch actuation depending on model
Buying / Selling the Tipo with a clean gearbox
The most desirable model is the Sedicivalvole, but the more mundane models offer a roomy, reliable and usually cheap form of transport, with Italian character thrown in.
Some tips to do before selling: (they may seem obvious, but most people don’t do them and thus are in a weaker bargaining position)
Tidy inside the car thoroughly : hover the floor, empty all pockets, ashtrays (wash), glove compartment etc…, wipe the trim with a damp cloth, give the cockpit a good airing to get rid of any odours ! Reset the trip meter to 00000 – it is a pleasant (subconscious) surprise.
If the car has been standing give it a good run – this will clear out the engine (reduce exhaust smoke), put a shine on the brake discs and loosen up any joints that may otherwise make some noises.
‘Back to black’ products are very effective at temporarily restoring bumpers and trim. This makes a big difference to any car. Do it a week before you expect people to view the car, otherwise it may be a bit too obvious !
Jet wash under the car, especially under the engine and in the wheel arches. The prospective buyer may be an enthusiast, and this makes it easier for them to see what they want to check.
Obviously wash the car and clean the windows!
If you are going to buy a car always check the following:
The bodywork should not be a major issue, but check around just in case. The wheel arches, suspension and engine mounts, sills, door pillars, scuttle panel and the floor can be easily inspected. If a sunroof is fitted check around the edges. Check that there are no mismatching panels, large areas of discolouration or signs of fresh paint.
Check for a damp carpet or the presence of mould – if the carpet is damp then the floor is almost certainly corroded – whatever the age of the car.
Check the main electrical functions – wipers, windows, etc… try putting the main beam and wipers on at the same time. Check the headlight reflectors for rust.
Check the brake pedal does not go to the floor if pressed hard for a long time and check the gear change for clean engagement.
The engine should be run up to temperature, check the exhaust for smoke, the condition of the breather (look for mayonnaise), and the condition of the oil filler cap (again white deposits can indicate head gasket or other serious problems) and the colour of the coolant (preferably not brown!). If the car has an oil pressure gauge this should not drop below 1 bar at idle, and should be around 3 to 4 bar at speed.
Listen to the noise of the engine, then depress the clutch and engage first gear. Whatever noise has disappeared was coming form the gearbox, what remains is from the engine. Also check the condition of the engine oil on the dipstick. The lighter brown the better, if it is thick black then leave quickly.
Check tyre wear, uneven patterns could imply a bent chassis.
Always take it for a test drive. Check that the car tracks in a straight line with no steering input. Find a large open area and complete several lock to lock turns (also in reverse), listening for any noises. Try the handbrake when moving – seized rear callipers will mean uneven braking or no braking.
Generally, Fiat Tipo’s are mechanically pretty good, and the old Italian problem of rust had been overcome before the Tipo arrived.
Method for cleaning a Tipo gearbox
A method of cleaning the gearbox system of a vehicle includes the steps of starting an engine of the vehicle and bringing it to normal operating temperature. A predetermined amount of a gearbox cleaner is charged into the gearbox and the vehicle is driven for a predetermined distance. The gears are changed at preselected times while driving so that all gears of the gearbox are used equally. The engine is then shut down and gearbox fluid is purged from the gearbox fluid pan by submerging a trailing end of a first hose into the gearbox fluid. A leading end of the first hose is connected into fluid communication with an inlet of a remote charging tank and an outlet of the remote charging tank is connected through a switch to a source of negative pressure. The switch is set to cause the gearbox fluid to flow into a gearbox fluid waste tank disposed between the outlet and the source of negative pressure. The trailing end of the first hose is then removed from the gearbox fluid pan and a gearbox cooling line is disconnected from a preselected port of the radiator. The trailing end of the first hose is placed into fluid communication with the gearbox cooling line at the preselected port while maintaining the leading end of the first hose in fluid communication with the inlet of the remote charging tank. Gearbox fluid is vacuumed from the gearbox cooling line and the gearbox cooling line is reattached so that all gearbox fluid is removed from the gearbox cooling lines and most of the gearbox fluid is removed from the torque converter.
Automatic gearbox fluid oil for Tipo
To operate the automatic gearbox, a car will need Automatic Gearbox Fluid (ATF). This stops corrosive damage, provides essential lubrication and is mostly made up of refined petroleum that has gone through a process that results in properties that assist a smoother gearbox and increase the life of the system – although the ATF system will need to be kept in tip-top condition with regular services as the car gets older.
It’s fair to say though, hardly anyone ever makes the effort to change the gearbox fluid – in fact many drivers wouldn’t even know where to start looking because it’s usually quite well hidden away.
You’ll know that you need to pay attention to the automatic gearbox fluid, if you find that the gear changes aren’t happening as smoothly as you might expect. Ideally, you should really aim to check the ATF once a month anyway so that you can spot any potential issues before they become a real and expensive problem to fix.
To check the ATF on your car you should take the following steps:
First of all, make sure that you find out which type of ATF fluid you should be using. This information should be in your owner’s manual – if not contact the manufacturer who should be able to tell you.
Park your car so that it is level on the ground (slanting in either direction could will alter your fluid readings) and leave the gears in either Park or Neutral. This is one of the few procedures that might require an idling engine but it does depend on the car so you need to check your owner’s manual first and find out. If it does require the engine to be running, start the car up and wait for it to warm.
Locate the ATF dipstick – it is often a lot shorter than the dipstick for the engine oil but should look virtually the same. In some cases it will have a label on it, so your job will be made much easier!
Take the dipstick out.
Wipe the dipstick down with a cloth or rag, put it back into the hole it came from, make sure it goes all the way back down to the bottom and pull it out again.
The colour and smell of ATF can also indicate problems. Wipe the fluid onto a white sheet of paper or kitchen towel. It will usually be red, and should be transparent and clean in appearance and free of black bits or flakes. It does become a more reddish-brown with age but should not be dark or black or smell of burning. If the fluid has any of these characteristics, seek professional advice.
Check the top of the dipstick and see if the fluid marking comes up to the ‘full’ line. Also check that you are looking at the warm reading – there should be one for ‘warm’ and one for ‘cold’.
If the fluid does not come up to the ‘full’ line then you will need to add some. Remember that ATF shouldn’t be ‘used’ as such, so if it is low, it’s likely that there is a leak. You will need to get this checked out as soon as possible as if left, it can lead to expensive repairs on the gearbox system.
To add the fluid simply use a funnel to pour it into the system (usually the hole will be tiny). You should add it slowly and keep checking the dipstick until it reaches the ‘full’ point. Remember that if you add too much you’ll have a heck of time taking it out again!!
Make sure the dipstick is back in securely when you’ve finished.
What happens next?
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